Done more plumbing work today. This is getting real boring, however quite important to make sure that everything is absolutely solid, does not move or rub anywhere and will withstand any abuse by road or temperature.
It took some time for me to decide what pipes and fittings to use. Until recently I still thought I am going to use pex and push in fittings for the hot lines, but not anymore.
I made some tests after the disaster with the push in air fittings. I used the pex fittings and made a pressure connection with my compressor hose and pumped up the line with a couple of fittings. Then I wiggled really hard on the hose and fittings, banged them on the concrete floor and wiggled again and sure enough air was leaking out, not permanently but under sideways pressure. I did not even bother to do this with the “normal” caravan fittings. No way I am going to use push in fittings for anything in the van. I will go copper and compression fittings for all hot water and heater connections.
For the cold no pressure side and the cold pressure side I use food grade hose of different diameter with barbed connections and stainless hose clamps. I am up to 80 clamps now .. not pretty, at least not as pretty as push ins, but absolutely solid.
I made brackets wherever the piping and valves needed support to avoid any movement or momentum to vibrate anything loose. All threaded connections are sealed with tape or Locktite and although I do not have a pressurised town water system I tried to get everything as tight as possible. I will however have an air pressure connection directly to the fill line of the fresh water and the drinking water tanks in order to blow out the fill lines as well as the breathers to remove residual water from those lines in case one or more of the tanks are not going to be used for a while. I have too many connections and corners, which can turn into a breeding ground of nasties. If worse comes to worse I can actually flush the hole system easily with disinfectant if required.
The image above shows the poly T which will be connected via an air valve to the brass T to the right. In can pressurise the hole system, which is handy for leak testing, but also blow out the fill lines and the breather lines of all or individual tanks.
The next image shows another valve to the left of the compressor and a brass barb just under the fill pipe. This is the connection from the house pump outlet to circulate water back into the fill line and to any fresh water tank in the system. This is mainly used to pump water between the tanks when required. There are multiple scenarios where this is needed.
The fill line is connected to the water tanks by sliding it on the fixed inlet on the tanks. The 25 mm hose was very tight and I had to use my SMD workstation to heat up the hose to soften it and get it over the intake.
This is the inlet of a drinking water tank. They are filled separately from the fresh water tanks.
Hopefully tomorrow I can finish the intake side of all tanks. Then I will do the cold water pressure hoses. I have marked the main walls and sections on the chassis and can now route all the hoses to the points where they go through the floor.