Today I swapped all the useless push in fittings with compression fittings using the same plastic hose. Had to tap 4 fittings with NPT thread at the mechanical pressure gauges. I only had BSP fittings, but it worked fine.
All my new connections were tight right from the start, should have done this in the first place BUT Chinese/American or whoever done that struck again:
The main connection of three of the 4 fill valves leaked where the connection goes into the body of the valve. One would expect that such things get pressure tested.. far from it I guess… This really annoys me and step by step kills any trust into anything, not that I still have much trust in anyone or anything anyway anymore.
Wow that was a lot of anys ..
So that is work for tomorrow when I get the blue Locktite, which should be the best for that sort of problem.
Here is a link to the movie I made to send to the supplier.
Well the ABS brake system leaked fluid, why should this be any better …
Below is a pic of the control panel of the air system before I calibrated the height sensors. I have calibrated them now to the lowest and highest point of the suspension with around 180mm difference. Ideal ride height is pretty much in the middle and suspension travel should be around 20-30mm to each side under normal conditions. This results in a maximum suspension travel of 3 times the suspension travel in “normal” driving conditions. It will be interesting to measure that eventually. I may just order another set of height sensors, they are easy to read with an Arduino – just 0-2.5 V for 90 degree max travel. I am really curious but this will have to wait until everything else is done.
I will program the 5 positions once the leaks are fixed. The lowest is for parking with minimum height to the first step of the stairs. The highest is for maximum clearance over obstacles or steep access ways. Then I will have a normal ride height and an elevated ride height for road and gravel and if going is rough I will use a slightly lower ride height which results in a softer suspension with larger travel. This only works when there are no major rocks etc., mainly on bad corrugations. With a softer suspension the shocks will work harder, but that is ok with the double shock arrangement I have. It will usually be combined with lowering tyre pressure as well.
Once the leaks are fixed I have to tidy up all the cables and hoses again. At the moment everything is a bit of a mess after ripping everything apart again.
I will continue working on the BMS. Today I received a few more building blocks for the electronics. I received some higher current (30A) relay boards which I will use for the higher individual DC loads, like TV lift, slide-outs etc. They are 240V capable as well but I am not going to use it for that. I will use DIN mounted relays to switch the 240V lines when required, e.g. the awning motor, towel racks, fridge and other individually connected 240V loads.